LFWM: The Best of the AW20 Collections
Back in January I attended London Fashion Week Mens, and I got to have a sneak peak at all the new male trends for Autumn and Winter 2020. I know we may only just be stepping into spring, but it's good to look at the emerging trends and next seasons fashions just before they hit the stores and are seen on street-style stars across the city. Below are some of my designers to know, with their new on trend collections.
Vinti Andrews for Autumn & Winter 2020 presented a collection inspired from the early 90s rave period. We saw a colour palette of earthy and subdued colours with pops of neon orange and yellows with neutrals and navy. The collection was super wearable with elevated functional details like zips and clips, with pockets and pouches placed strategically. I noticed lots of easy and laid back layering perfect for transitional seasons where it can be cold one minute but hot the next. A perfectly wearable collection that would be at home walking any city street with effortless, casual swagger. Elevated streetwear that I am a fan of, perfect!
Robyn Lynch presented one of my favourite collections for her Autumn and Winter 2020 season this January, and it was also her first stand-alone presentation. The collection had a colour palette of blues, greys and blacks with detail added using print work inspired by teletext and a play in textures. While mixing classic tailoring with functionality, and leisure wear, designer Robyn used layering throughout her collection, which was a noted trend through all the collections.
Oversized Aran Knits were seen cut or spliced in many ways, layered over other garments. Prints inspired by teletext were seen on jumpers and scarves to add detail. Waterproof zip-up jackets in black or grey were cut with a roomy silhouette, also seen under Aran knits, and fleece track pants were cut with a waistband of grey nylon, or black denim jeans with an added black nylon waistband were spotted. The whole collection was very cohesive, wearable yet fashion forward and trendsetting within their own right. A fantastic collection by Robyn.
Ahluwalia was a new brand on my radar this season. It was created by Priya Ahluwalia who graduated with a masters in Menswear from the University of Westminster in 2018 and was in the first ever cohort of the MA Menswear course. Priya takes elements from her dual Indian-Nigerian heritage and London roots and explores the life of vintage and dead stock clothing, using textile techniques to give them new life. Ahluwalia photographs her own research which is an integral part to her design process. Ahluwalia is a brand that focuses on creating unique forward-thinking garments for the modern man, using responsible sourcing and manufacturing techniques.
For her AW20 collection, Ahluwalia went back to a nostalgic 1965. Instead of florals and flares, a more subtle vision of the Sixties was presented, with a muted colour palette of brown, green and navy. A trippy blend of colours and lines were seen, all of which appeared on garments in new ways. For example, laser-etching on denim and vinyl transfers and patchwork.
Pasifism is a ready-to-wear menswear brand founded by London born designer Talal Hizami in 2018. Being a fashion outsider with no concentrated design background, Hizami uses his clothing and creativity as a vehicle to tell his stories whilst imploring a designer attitude throughout his collections. For Autumn and Winter 2020 Pacifism gave us another absolutely wearable collection but with added subtle messaging, symbols, colours, textures and silhouettes. The collection aimed to tell a personal story though this collection, and a connection to what the designer has experienced to be a "high power".
The concept of a "Higher Power" is unique and different to every individual. whether it be god, the universe, a great energy or different spiritual beings. The collection uses powerful imagery and symbolism, from the five pillars, which if you look at the clothing closely you'll notice the subtle lines embroidered and created in jumpers and jackets. The collection as a whole was extremely wearable in autumnal shades of burnt orange, burgundy, blues and blacks.
Kaushik Lelendra is the 29 year old from Southern India who is redefining modern tailoring and red carpet masculinity. His inspirations come from myriad experiences that have shaped his uniquely modern vision for classic menswear.
For his Autumn and Winter 2020 collection we saw an array of glamourous and elegant silhouettes on show, all impeccably tailored showcasing the brands artisanal skills. Pieces were sexy yet masculine featuring elegant and elongated proportions such as string shoulders, and black as a basic colour palette. His designs also showcase bold muscles highlighted using modified tailoring techniques, ultimately creating a new generation of menswear for a modern, futuristic, sophisticated and luxurious man. A collection I personally found beautiful, that would fit perfectly into my own closet!