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  • Stefan Howarth

LFWM: Show Reviews featuring Oliver Spencer, Michiko Koshino & 8ON8

Oliver Spencer For Spring and Summer 2020 Oliver Spencer presented a vision of easy to wear, deconstructed silhouettes in muted jewel tones, mixing traditional quality and craftsmanship with a relaxed, modern aesthetic. The muted jewel toned palette featured oranges, navies and greens mixed with ecru in traditional summer fabrics that have been reworked for a fresh, modern vibe. A collection that could easily be worn at home, to the office or even on a relaxed beach walk. Spencer wasn’t just letting the audience view his collection, he took us on a journey showing us all a glimpse of the Oliver Spencer lifestyle.

The collection was inspired by Wong Kar-Wais’ film “In the mood for love”. Spencer infused the collection with the vibrant atmosphere of Hong Kong’s famous night markets, reflecting the energy and colour of the 1960s era. This was seen from the intimate venue which served Dim Sum and cocktails through to the soft, laid back tailoring of the collection. Organic cotton, seersucker and jersey were the main components of the new season presented in array of styles, such as safari inspired pyjama jackets and classic Coram Nehru collared pieces, all lightweight and easy to wear.

Michiko Koshino For Spring and Summer 2020 Michiko Koshino presented an attempt to overcome the seasonal timeline and constraints currently faced in the fashion industry. Koshino’s collections fused men’s and womenswear without being androgynous, the pieces were clearly created to fit each sex but the garments were styled in exactly the same way. This wasn’t fast fashion, these were pieces that could slot into anyone’s wardrobes that would be wearable and relevant for many years to come. The collection itself featured contemporary silhouettes with the brands DNA running through its core. Cotton, nylon and silk featured throughout in muted tones of sand, off-white, khaki and pastel toned prints. We witnessed polo shirts and knitwear with relaxed silhouettes such as dropped shoulders and lose trousers. A collection of contemporary and aesthetically elevated clothes with a streetstyle vibe, ready to be worn and lived in.

8ON8 presented by GQ China 8ON8 is a Chinese brand that debuted back in 2017 by founder and designer Li Gong who creates pieces in a ‘retro-futurism’ aesthetic. This season GQ China helped support the 8ON8 brand show during London Fashion Week Mens with its “GQ China Presents” project.

The show entitled ‘San Junipers’ was Gongs first international catwalk which was partially inspired by the UK show “Black Mirror”. Envisaging a post-death virtual world service to its residents allowing them to live forever like computer game characters.

8ON8 gave us signature boxy silhouettes, silk, tailoring, print and jersey all mixed into a diverse and modern, fashion forward collection. The show contained pieces that were absolutely wearable dispersed with avant garde looks that pushed the boundaries of men’s fashion and gender norms, something that is often frequenting the runway. Gong styled boxy, tailored menswear with silk pajamas highlighting the contrast between the masculine and feminine in garments. Gong also showcased print work extracted from graffiti art of the 1980s with a washed or worn effect on jersey to represent the underground club culture of the era.

The mix of luxurious menswear infused with young and energetic prints infused street elements with high fashion, creating lust worthy designs for the modern, fashion forward man. Clothing that was absolutely wearable but elevated with a mature energy of a young generation. A perfect mix of traditional tailoring juxtaposing contemporary fashion.