LFWM: Show Reviews featuring E.Tautz, Iceberg & Per Gotesson by Saffy Khan
Hello HOWSTE readers! Saffy Khan at your service, once again. I have my own slice of the internet but today I’m all yours. This season started with a migraine and a panicked dash to make the first show, E Tautz. I wasn’t going to let a headache get in the way of SS20. So the show went on and I was there, FROW, taking in every satiating detail.
E.Tautz I Left craving a Terry’s chocolate orange, which is almost blasphemous any time outside of December if you ask me. I blame Patrick Grant, the designer behind this seasons rich colour palette. Oxblood reds, powder blues and all shades of orange graced the runway. Orange has been very popular as of late, just ask Virgil Abloh. The opening look saw a black and white dolman shirt paired with tangerine linen shorts, orange kicks by Christian Louboutin and a tangerine linen drawstring boot bag. The shorts were oversized which gave the entire look a laid back feel, in true E.Tautz style. The show notes described the collection as ‘juicy and fruity and floral’ and that it is. Floral shirts were paired with oversized blazers and socks and sandals. Grant drew inspiration from Tish Murtha’s distinctive black and white photography. Tish documented working class life in the North of England in the 1970’s and 80’s. She’d often shoot her subjects within their homes, against backdrops of floral wallpaper and upholstered sofas.
Iceberg There was most certainly an air of youthful rebellion to this season’s collection. Very fitting given the state of our country’s political affairs at present. Sub cultures came together in full force, the ‘Punks of Kings Road’, the ‘Sloanes and Hoorays of Knightsbridge’ and the ‘South Kensington Goths’ all stomping down the runway, together. Same, but different. The show kicked off with ICEBERG x PETER BLAKE, the first in a series of ongoing ICEBERG ART DENIM collaborations. Pop art graphics covered full looks, mini dresses and easy knits. Every piece was positively bursting with colourful energy. There was something for everyone, from boyish rocker zipped sleeve jackets to bungee tied trousers. From The Cure to JLo. Whatever your sound, James Long has it covered.
Per Gotesson There is a beautiful softness to Per Gotesson’s creations. A neutrality that allows a margin for interpretation, allowing the wearer to truly make the garments their own. The opening look featured a simple black and white tee with a fragment of a beaded photograph pinned to the chest. The eyes in the photo belong to Gotessons partner, jewellery designer Husam El Ode. He is the master mind behind the ambiguous bent cutlery and key pieces that embellished the wrists, ankles and necks of Gotesson’s bare footed models. Husam El Ode also created the silver bird nests that adorned the baseball caps in this collection, inspired by an actual bird nest in their garden. Strong silhouettes flowed down the runway, as the designer experimented with drapery and proportions. Gotesson worked in conjunction with designer Kathy McGee to create my favourite piece, a statement trench brought to life using the latest in 3D technology.