LFW: AW19 Show Reviews
Featuring Bora Aksu, Paula Knorr and Vin + Omi
Bora Aksu Iridescent organza, tulle fabrics and futuristic sunglasses appeared on the runway this season at Bora Aksu, inspired by Valentina Tereshkova, who was the first woman to fly in space back in 1963. The collection was an ethereal wonder of new silhouettes, materials and detailing. We saw the softer side of space travel that isn’t often presented, with soft pastel palettes creating almost a mystical feel, hues of lilac, purple, pink and green were paired with quieter shades of elegant white, cream and soft blue.
Aksu created garments that react to microgravity in a new, fashion forward way. The combination of soft feminine fabrics and structured shapes add a sense of romance to the strong, bold silhouettes. The astronaut-aesthetic manifests itself in coats, boxed jackets and puffer jackets with the Avant Garde shaped sunglasses that almost resembled goggles.
Aksu created garments that reflect Valentina’s space trip while also drawing on the contrasts of her early life growing up in a small village. Valentina was the daughter of a tractor driver and textile plant worker, whom left school to begin working at a textile plant in order to help support her family. Valentina later insisted that she wanted more in life, and decided to pursue her formal education and she joined a club for parachutists. Later, following a letter to the space centre volunteering for the cosmonaut team, Valentina, who was a woman with little formal education, was selected as one of five women, all of whom were much more qualified than her. After intensive training, Valentina proved she could make the final cut, and on June 16, 1963, she spent almost three days in space and orbited the Earth 48 times in her space capsule. In the years to follow, Tereshkova went on to graduate from the Zhuykosky Air Force Engineering Academy in 1969 and earned a degree in Technical Science. She then toured the world promoting science and feminism. Valentina serves as a role model for all women throughout the world who wish to strive to achieve their dreams.
A romantic collection with delicate and ethereal fabrications and powerful structured tailoring, with futuristic space travel influences that push the boundaries of modernity while remaining feminine and absolutely wearable.
Paula Knorr In the AW19 collection, Paula Knorr gave us awe-inspiring eveningwear that provides as much comfort and ease as leisurewear. A modern take on eveningwear was created with Knorr incorporating materials such as jersey and Lycra with more lavish fabrics in lustful and elegant designs with rich tones. Captivating sequins, soft Lamè velvets and satins were seen in seductive yet playful rich reds, pink, black and wine tones.
At the core of the collection were bold figure-hugging silhouettes with Avantgarde drapes, a Knorr signature, in a mix of fabrics all finished with Lycra panels to allow flexibility and movement for the wearer adding to a hint of 'sport-luxe' with relaxed shapes. An absolutely stunning collection perfect for the party season, carefully designed so the wearer can party all night in comfort, as well as style. Pieces to certainly lust after come autumn and winter!
Vin + Omi Vin + Omi opened London fashion week with another ground breaking eco fashion show, and along for the ride they brought Jodie Kidd who returned to the runway after a 10 year break, joined with stars Jo and Leah wood. The collection, true to the brands heart, was created using a huge range of ethically sourced and recycled materials, many of which her collected by the brand themselves as part of 22 clean up projects around the UK.
The collection presented for AW19 was extremely wearable with the odd elevated, avant-garde piece thrown in for good measure, showcasing the designers talents. An array of textures, shapes and materials were used with a mixed colour palette and prints. Overall the pieces had an oversized aesthetic, often belted or left to drape.
The show literally had something for everyone, and with ethics and sustainability running at the heart of the brand, they're certainly a one to watch, if not love, for many seasons to come.