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October 9, 2019

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LFWM: Show Reviews ft Edward Crutchley, E.Tautz & Xander Zhou...

22-Jan-2019

This season of London Fashion Week Men’s was just as busy as any other, however for these collections I actually wrote show reviews for Sacrebleu! Magazine.

Direct Link to Sacrebleu! Magazine 

You may have heard me mention Sacrebleu on my social media, or even my radio interview at BBC Radio Nottingham, if not, visit the website above to check them out. They’re a bilingual fashion magazine that not only sells online, but in Paris, London and New York. During this season of LFWM they managed to gain backstage access to the collections just before they hit the runway, gaining fabulous up-close and personal photos of the models and designs before they were presented to the world. For these amazing snapshots I wrote short reviews of the collections, and these are now on the website for you to read and enjoy.

Below is a quick roundup of shows that I attended with photos of my favourite pieces to walk the runway, first up is Edward Crutchley, one of my key favourites from this season.

Edward Crutchley
Edward Crutchley gave us a sartorial, no-frills collection with a dash of glamour for its autumn and winter 2019 show. We saw metallic sheens, detailed prints and fur embroideries juxtaposed with relaxed workwear in eighties style tailoring. Comfortable and roomy silhouettes littered the collection which was described as business wear with a bite, while being elevated with luxurious fabrications and gothic details. For the season, Crutchley gave us a muted palette of greys, greens, muted camel and chocolate brown. Inspired by Grace Jones in a view to kill there was a nod to power dressing, pomp and parties with drama and shine running through the collection, from the maxi velvet capes to silk robes, Lurex tops and pillow box hats. No-nonsense tailoring with loose pinstripe pants were matched with luxe cashmere knits and layered under swishing three-button coats. Wool pants were embellished with zips, and draped pencil skirts were worn with a matching blazer. Gothic nails, eye make up and Amish style hats by Stephen Jones Millinery all added an air of elegance, the attitude is one of dressing for the occasion.
 


My absolutely favourite piece was the lurex dress, slim fit in a silvery gold metallic. Styled with a larger than life hat and sky high Christian Louboutins. I would die for this look, and I must admit, I’ve since spent hours googling and lusting over those fierce Louboutin! For me, a powerful collection to lust over, wearable workwear that packs a punch.
 

 

 

 

 


E.Tautz
Saffy and I were lucky enough to bag front row seats this season for the E.Tautz show, and as it was my first show of the season, it helped us start mens week as we meant to go on, being fabulous!
 

 
For Autumn/Winter 2019 ETautz was a jewelled vision of relaxed menswear. Jewelled tones of blue, green and burgundy with creams and greys to complement the looks walked the runway. The collection was littered with slouchy menswear pieces that were inter-seasonal, a collection that could take you beyond Autumn and Winter and into the following seasons. Oversized wide-leg pants, shortened bomber jackets, and double-breasted collarless tops were featured. Single-button blazers were tailored with an oversized aesthetic and scarves that came athletically striped and elaborately tasseled were added to accessorise. The trousers, though tailored seemed cumbersome in cotton and corduroy which gave a nod to the eighties era, something we’ve seen a lot of recently throughout all the collections. A casual show of basics elevated with smart blazers or unusually cut tops such as the oversized blue cowl-neck piece kept the collection interesting while being absolutely wearable.
 

 

 


My favourites from the collection are the jewelled toned pieces that you can mix and match for many seasons to come, and the styling with the scarves, effortless chic for daily wear around the city.
 

 

 

Xander Zhou 

Supernatural, extraterrestrial, futuristic. Xander Zhou’s autumn & winter 2019 collection would be at home in any time period from now to the year 4000. Saffy and I were lucky enough to sit front row at the show, and it was a show that had us hooked. Inspired by far away galaxies and the possible future of the human race, the collection was a mix of wearable and avant garde pieces, an amazing show mixing art, theatrics and fashion. The show started with subdued eerie techno music, setting the scene for the futuristic collection. Models walked in utilitarian polo tees, jacquard knits, rugby style pullovers and lab coats as if they were a tribe of workers from a distant galaxy. Ancient Mangua style jackets, cut out knit trousers and clinical overalls were styled in such a way they looked as if they were from a future time period where over the top grandeur and ruffled fashions were no more. Avant garde styling may have helped set the mood of the show, drawing you to another time, but the pieces were wearable in today’s 2019 climate. Hi-vis belts and barrel backpacks were paired with Nike air max 720 trainers which is sure to keep any streetstyle fan happy. Basics such as cotton ankle length trousers and ripped jumpers looked at home amongst the extraterrestrial styling of silicone badges and prints of planetary models, yet they would equally work on the street, mixed with your casual wardrobe. As the collection unfolded we left the stern, extraterrestrial worker vibes and the collection entered an exciting aquatic phase. Models wore diving flippers and PVC all in one bodysuits with fin like embellishment. Nothing in this collection looked too much, or out of place, it simply felt like we were watching the future of fashion, fashion that had adapted for a world that we hadn’t lived yet. We still saw materials such as cotton, nylon, PVC, canvas, polyester with fleece and leather but it was all carefully designed into a fresh, fashion forward, new approach to design. Even the simple colour palette of black, white, muted grey, green and blue seemed fresh and modern. The collection did seem to channel a seventies aesthetic at one point, with polo neck jumpers and knitted matching trousers that almost looked like an all-in-one, teamed with long bowl-cut hair. However the pieces had a modernity to them, through ankle guards and stripe detailing. Xander Zhou gave us a mind blowing futuristic collection, an evolution of our species and the clothing of tomorrow.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Want more? Stay tuned for my second post with more exciting designers coming in the next few days! 

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