LFW Show Reviews ft Starsica, Soe Jakarta and Simon Mo
London Fashion Week is the most diverse, unique, eccentric and fashion forward of all the fashion weeks across the world, and this season was no exception. At a time where brands are looking for more commercially viable ways to show their collections in difficult pre-Brexit uncertainty, we still witnessed amazing runway shows and presentations. Starsica was one of those shows that blew guests away, left them wanting more, a show so fabulous it played around your mind in the weeks following. I sashayed into Freemasons Hall with my friend @StyleGrimoires and we took our seats in great anticipation. The title of the Starsica AW18 collection is “seiren sings for a mad king”. Ike Seungik Lee is the designer behind the brand and he took his inspiration from observing the behaviours of everyone around him, the unspecified masses. Translating people’s egos, characteristics and visions through models as they performed and danced down the runway in a picturesque, dreamy, fairytale style. We are all the ‘Mad King’ singing similar sirens.
With the Autumn/Winter 2018 collection Starsica electrified the audience with practical, everyday pieces while still cultivating an atmosphere of childish intrigue in a whimsical manner. We saw a palette of greys, blues and lilac with bright accents such as green and yellow in an array of textures. Delicate chiffon ruffles, velvet, faux fur in bright colours, an angelic gold feathered blouse, and fishtails constructed from exaggerated layers of blue tartan, the show featured it all, yet everything was totally wearable in its own right. Taking some inspiration from Greek tragedies, the models featured waved eyebrows and heavily rouged eyes and cheeks while wearing pieces that featured Greek motifs upon blazers, coats and dresses. The Greek theme continued onto sweatshirts and different jackets with scalloped edges that were contoured or angled like romantic, Greek architecture.
Some of my favourite pieces were the whimsical accessories, featuring Perspex bags in the shape of coffins, mirrors, delicate carry cases resembling old carry clocks and mirrored boxes. The whole show, which truly was a show, was fantastic with an inherent sense of humour, displaying distorted aspects of our society in conceptual symbols infused into the collections. Simultaneously moody and dramatic, dreamy and ethereal, a standout of London Fashion Week. As for the clothing? I want it all...
The designs by designer Monique Soeriaatmadja are created using traditional Indonesian handwoven textiles mixed with modern cuts and urban appeal. The brand is committed to reviving the art of weaving in Indonesia and mixes local artisan techniques with technical fabrics. Monique’s AW18 collection for Soe Jakarta was no different, and as I sat in the second row I enjoyed the easy elegance and wearable and chic aesthetic of everything presented down the runway. A soft and easy colour palette of white, beige hues, sand with black and blue intermixed made the pieces perfect to add to any existing wardrobe. Each outfit was paired with black, suede ankle boots that contrasted the nude colour palette of many of the garments. While the pieces were chic and far from avant garde, they all had unique design elements that elevated them. The looks were androgynous, exploring masculine silhouettes with loose fit dresses, jackets, trousers, skirts and shirts in handwoven cotton, crisp poplin and silk organza. In contrast, feminine detailing is seen on cinched in waists and drawstring detailing. The pieces were simple yet elevated with there carefully designed details, overall a fantastic collection of classics for the modern woman. My favourites? The organza coat, loose fit blue trousers with cut out detail and the sand jumpsuit worn with a chic high necked white blouse with cut out detail at the back, effortless glamour without any ostentation.
Simon Mo is known for blending smart casual and sport couture to create eye catching pieces. Born in Taiwan and raised in Malaysia, Simon Mo graduated from Central Saint Martin in 2012. Following experiences at Alexander McQueen DVF director Nathan Jenden, Mo created his one line in 2016 with a goal to present his own vision to the market. The debut AW18 collection was entitled “Aerial Display” and took inspiration from British photojournalist Jimmy Nelson. He created a serious of images and portraits from remote communities and indigenous people around the world. Tribes were depicted decorating there bodies with tattoos and bright colours, very much like birds of paradise. Male birds give a “aerial display” with exaggerated gestures gaining attention from female birds. This interested and inspired Designer Simon Mo to take inspiration from plumages or birds and tribal men into clothing that adorns the female body.
As me and my fashion friend Saffy glided down the marble walkway in 5 inch heels we were surprised with glorious front row seats, perfect to witness the amazing fashions ahead. As we took our seats I bumped into Sophie Herman, a star of Made in Chelsea whom I’ve spoken to several times via Instagram but never met in person. It was lovely that she recognised me and we had a little preshow chat and photo. Adding to the excitement that filled the air and anticipation of Mo’s new collection.
As the show opened I gazed in ore at the beautiful colour palette and prints that glided past effortlessly. In a colour palette of soft pastels, Mo offered up delectable teddy boy silhouettes, culottes, oversized wool coats, paper-bag waistbands and kitten heeled shoe boots. My favourite pieces were the gorgeous asymmetric dresses with striped pattern, drop waists and ruching with volume from the loose fit cuts. They glided beautifully and literally gave me life at the end of the show. A stunning collection with clear design talent, craftsmanship and use of colour, congratulations Simon Mo. If you look closely, you might even spot Saffy and I gazing at the garments in the front row!
With a special thank you to Fashion Scout London, DyeLog PR and Dust PR for your hard work and for giving me the opportunity to cover these amazing events during London Fashion Week. Another special thanks to Saffy @StyleGrimoires for taking photos of me when needed. For more information on the designers themselves, please visit their own Instagram feeds and websites.