LFW Show Reviews ft Claire Tagg, Jiri Kalfar, Cassey Gan and Rohmir...
Claire Tagg I sashayed into the Claire Tagg presentation with a moody frown on my face following a seating shitstorm at an unnamed runway show, not what I wanted on day one of LFW. My frown soon disappeared upon gazing over the pieces Claire Tagg presented and she’s become one of my standout designers of the season. Claire Tagg is a print and textiles designer born in the midlands, who recently graduated from The University Of The Creative Arts in Rochester with a degree in BA Hons Fashion Textiles Print. Even though Claire is only 26, she’s travelled across Europe as an Air Hostess and her graduate collection focuses on the stories she’s gathered on her journeys and featuring looks inspired by airline glamour. Claire Tagg presented a colour palette of white, black, orange and pinks that were accented with texture, sequins and print work. Incorporated into each garment were classic cuts elevated with unusual detailing or styling. My favourite piece was the amazing cream blazer dress, a stunningly cut blazer, elegantly belted at the waist with an airplane style belt and floral print details. It also had sequinned work at the front, with sequins being used throughout the collection. A fantastic eye for detail, Claire Tagg not only creates staple classics, but fashion forward pieces that could be paired down for everyday wear or worn together as statements. Below are a selection of pieces I saw at her presentation, I know which ones I want to get my hands on, which are your favourite?
Jiri Kalfar Entitled return of the queen, me and my fashion friends were excited for the Jiri Kalfar AW18 collection, with the invites stating former supermodel Paulina Porizkova was to walk returning to London Fashion Week after 30 years, we knew the show would be a standout!
Jiri Kalfar is Czech based designer, who originally trained to be a ballet dancer, and is ever so handsome! He’s known for infusing his innate sense of style into garments with folk-art inspired prints and innovative cuts. His menswear is boundary pushing in terms of its fluid approach to gender identity which I totally adore, and his womenswear celebrates the freedom of the feminine soul with free flowing silhouettes and a vibrant palette. His AW18 Show started at Freemasons Hall with great anticipation amongst guests and it didn’t disappoint, we were wowed with each piece presented. The show was elegant and the music was soft with Terezie Kovalova playing a Cello within the audience. I found myself seduced by elegant dresses and separates in bold blues, lace, gold and burgundy. The show featured decadence from beginning to end with models in crown jewel layerings of ruby furs and dazzling sapphire sparkles while intricate jewellery-like gold lace demanded attention and power as it walked the marble runway. The feminine lace and elegant jewel styling were mixed with masculine shapes, like the beautiful bright blue sequinned trouser suit.
The show was entitled ‘Return of a queen’ and I can truly see a queen in every piece we saw. With dresses dipped in gold lace to more everyday separates such as the orange and black pencil skirt and cape. The collection depicts all stages of being a queen, from all out avant garde glamour, to more everyday pieces, each with finesse, style and regal elegance.
Paulina Porizkova elegantly glided down the Mable floor in a a gold, mesh and lace gown (which could actually be separates but I can’t tell and the press release doesn’t say either). Like the whole collection, the piece was elegant and as she walked we had a slow, relaxing yet powerful soundtrack with Terezie Kovalova on the Cello. The whole show was absolutely perfect, and each piece would make any women harness the power and grace of a queen.
Cassey Gan Cassey Gan is a designer that originally started her career completing a bachelor of engineering before she decided to pursue her passion for design. Gan who has now graduated with a BA First Class Honours in Fashion Design and Technology showcased her collection entitled ‘Picture Perfect’ in presentation form during London Fashion Week. The collection was inspired by Maria Svarbova’s art and today’s social media. Svarbova created a photo series called ‘swimming pool’ showing blue waters with clean white tiles in a picturesque utopia but is juxtaposed by the dullness of the people shot. Plain, expressionless faces, blurring lines between fantasy and reality. Cassey Gan took this and referenced it with today’s social media generation. How we create fictional versions of ourselves in the pursuit of perfection, we are also blurring our social media lives and our actually lives. The collection Gan created from this inspiration a palette of blues with grey and accents of red, yellow and pink. The pieces also featured lots of print inspired by the Svarbova pieces yet in true Cassey Gan style were comfortable yet with modern styling. The AW18 pieces had loose fitncuts and layering which is something her label focuses on. A lovely collection overall for the modern women.
Rohmir “when you travel to a new place you get a beautiful first feeling…and music is definitely one of the most inspirational things in the world.” - Olg Roh Designer Olga Roh presented another dramatic show this season, collaborating with Choreographer and dancer Kirill Burlov and National Ballet dancer Jia Zhang. Displaying this seasons collection with great elegance, a mixture between runway and dance. “Shall we dance” was Inspired by the designers trip to South America. Ballet dancer Zhang opened the show wearing a silver and crimson organza dress, which fanned with spectacular fluidity, which totally helped showcase her ‘Shall We Dance’ collection. Championing elaborate and opulent prints and textiles with structured silhouettes, the show was awash with the designer’s passion for theatricality and timelessness. The AW18 collection was romantic and feminine with its elegant detailing, materials and cuts plus beautiful dancing and music that transported us away to a warm summer evening in . We saw her signature structured trouser suits in silk and lace, an array of colours from dark seductive greens to summer whites, distinguished gold and classic navy. Beautiful dresses featured with lace and royal gold motifs with different materials such as velvet, metallic wool, silk and ribbon were used. A beautiful collection that was shown in a beautiful combination of fashion and movement. We also saw a selection of children’s pieces that were in similar feminine styling. The collection ‘Shall We Dance’ was based on the designers own experiences of travel in South America and the music of composer Astor Piazzolla. These were clothes designed for an elegant life of love, passion and travel... and I love them! Below are a selection of photos from the show and a link to the designers show video for you to watch, enjoy!