LFW Review: Day Two ft EDDA, Han Wen, Katie McGuigan & Sue Dray (Part 2)...
I’ve been a fan of EDDA’s whimsical aesthetic for a while through social media, so I was super excited to get the chance to see her Spring/Summer 2018 collection with Fashion Scout. Norwegian designer Edda Gimnes also received the coveted Merit Award this season, which means she will receive a fully sponsored presentation during London Fashion Week with space to host press and buyers during next seasons shows. “THE MERIT AWARD IS A AMAZING INITIATIVE TO SHOW SUPPORT FOR UP-AND-COMING DESIGNERS, AS GETTING RECOGNITION AND GUIDANCE IS INCREDIBLY IMPORTANT AT AN EARLY STAGE. IT IS SUCH AN HONOUR TO RECEIVE THIS AWARD AND I AM SO THRILLED TO SHOW MY NEW SS18 COLLECTION WITH FASHION SCOUT THIS SEPTEMBER. FOR ME THE MERIT AWARD MAKES IT POSSIBLE FOR ME TO CONTINUE TO BUILDING MY BRAND.” - Edda Gimnes EDDA is known for colour, texture and her amazing digital prints that she draws herself, and her SS18 collection was no exception. Drawing her whimsical inspiration from 1950’s silhouettes, she combined elements of sportswear with feminine Hollywood glamour. The collection featured a colour palette of olive, mustard, hues of grey, light pink and teal accented with yellows. EDDA’s hand drawn prints in doodle/graffiti style can be seen on coats, dresses, shoes, over the knee socks, bags and hats in exaggerated yet fun proportions. Below are some photos that I took at EDDA’s presentation. I witnessed elegant models walk around the audience and on stage in full EDDA looks featuring minimal make up yet fresh faced as they glanced around the room. I personally felt the pieces were whimsical and fun, yet sophisticated and extremely elegant with quirky flair. A collection to die for and a designer to certainly keep your eye on for the future with multiple awards under her belt already. I’ve picked the pieces I’m certainly desperate to add to my ever expanding wardrobe, which ones are your favourite?
“MY DESIGNS REPRESENT ME. I HAVE A BIG PERSONALITY, I AM COLOURFUL AND I AM OUTGOING” - Edda Gimnes
Han Wen Han Wen was one of my personal ‘not to miss’ shows as I loved his last collection back in February, and he sure didn’t disappoint! Han Wen, known for designing pieces with masculine silhouettes mixed with feminine flair to embody youth and rebellion (a concept that I adore) drew his inspiration for his Spring/Summer 2018 show from a women he encountered in London. The unnamed woman was a dynamic business owner, running a male dominated barbershop that she inherited. The woman’s role was one of authority and designer Han Wen felt that this epitomised female empowerment, and after speaking with the girl, Wen found she grew up breaking gender barriers. She was brought up as a tomboy but used make up and fashion to prove gender was irrelevant to her capabilities. Taking inspiration from this, Han Wen created a beautifully wearable collection with pieces of clothing that had a balance of masculine and feminine pieces. The items were a paradox, soft and hard, mixing elegance and strength, traditional but contemporary. The elegant models glided down the marble runway in stunning looks, curly hair and baseball hats, with matte satin garments mixed with a relaxed tomboy aesthetic. Having read into Han Wens inspiration I can see his influences in each garment. Sensual and feminine satin tops and dresses mixed with masculine caps, cotton shirts, safety pin details and silhouettes but it somehow works. Creating models that were stunning, with an understated elegance, that also came across as strong, independent women. As a man that does a similar thing with my looks, mixing traditional male aesthetic with feminine flair to push gender barriers in the hope of being a stand alone, independent person in my own right, I totally understand the inspirations and design of the looks Wen sent down the runway. A collection that I absolutely adored, and a show with music that is still playing in my head, Han Wen has literally killed it for SS18, a collection that isn’t just fabulous, but totally relevant for the season. “I love to create and being a designer allows me to tell people stories in a more fabulous way” - Han Wen
Katie Ann McGuigan Following from her amazing success last season, Katie presented her Spring/Summer collection to a packed audience. Unlike my front row seat last time, I was seated 4th row, therefore I decided to stand as nothing was going to get in my way of witnessing Katie’s vision for SS18, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. “Similar to my AW17 collection, photography remains important. I am looking at Perry Ogden’s work, as well as a few other photographers that have taken amazing photos of travellers. This season, I am also using secondary colours and lots of prints” - Katie Ann McGuigan Katie is becoming known for her print design mixed with modern, graphic silhouettes which last season was presented in bright primary colours. This season, for SS18, we saw her aesthetic presented using more secondary colours, naturally with her graphic prints featuring heavily. We saw shades of yellow, orange, green, purple and blue strut down the runway with hints of white within her prints. Yellow heels with ruched fabric detail stamp-walked to photographers and models worked each garment to heavy beat music, however it was a more toned down show to last season back in February. Katie’s vision for SS18 featured volume with layered fabrics, texture, ruffles, laser cutting, leather and organza. It was a grown up, high end collection that saw tasteful geometric print throughout. The lightweight fabrics, such as tulle and chiffon moved beautifully with the models every step creating a feminine appeal, while heavier leather and knot pieces held their architectural structure. Another amazing collection, that felt fresh and totally relevant for next season, Katie is a star on the rise, and she’s already creating pieces I’m desperate to covet and wear!
Sue Dray: Fashion Scouts first artist in residence During the shows this September, Fashion Scout had an artist in residence to draw & paint live during the frenzie that is fashion week. Sue Dray is an illustrator who is well know at the Fashion Scout shows having attended for many seasons. I first met Sue briefly during February 2017 as we posed for a quick snap or two.
Her energy was fun, bubbly and absolutely Fashion and I was super excited to see her work during this season. Sue had her make-shift studio set up right next to photographers at the end of the catwalk, capturing each designers vision, energy and aesthetic in elegant print on canvas, making the catwalk her studio. Sue’s work was scattered around Freemason’s Hall for us all to view as we sashayed to and from presentations and shows. I managed to snap a few myself, and I must admit I adored her style of work and feel she really did capture the fashion ‘moment’ that each designer presented to us on the runway. A fantastic talent that I hope to meet again soon, below are a few of Sue’s fabulous pieces, and some of my favourites. For more information you can follow Sue on her Instagram @SueDrayLCF. Art and fashion have always walked hand in hand, and it was great to watch Sue use her talent to merge the two.
Han Wen & Katie McGuigan quotes taken from Pioneer Magazine presented by The Fashion conversation and Fashion Scout. Edda quotes sourced from FashionScout.co.uk. A thank you to Black PR, Pop PR, Fashion Scout and The December Agency for press photos and show invites this season. Art created by Sue Dray photographed by myself. All EDDA photos taken by me during her live presentation.