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Does Galliano + Margiela = A hit?...

13-Jan-2015

It has happened, finally! After waiting several months since the announcement that John Galliano would now head Maison Martin Margiela we get to see his first collection, and I am so happy! If I am totally honest I had forgotten that his first show at Margiela was this week to end the mens London collections and it was a nice surprise to see my twitter and facebook feeds fill up with Margiela Madness. I instantly hunted for photos, and I was not disappointed, Galliano is back with everything I had hoped for. Colour, attention to detail, seductive cuts and powerful silhouettes. The old Galliano that I loved so much at Dior still remains, but the Dior days are dead, and this is a new beginning. Not just for Galliano, but for Margiela.


The first thing that caught my eye was the name change, Masion Martin Margiela is no more. It was on the invitation and the show notes, Maison Martin Margiela, its name since its founding in 1988, had become Maison Margiela. Do I like it? Yes. Its a fresh start for the brand. A company spokesman said on Tuesday that the change “reflects the evolution of the house.” New leader, new name? I think so. The brands name change just, well, happened. There was no press attention, no announcements, no advertising. They decided to do it, and did it. It was done so swiftly and quietly people hardly noticed, too busy awaiting the collection, too busy anticipating Gallianos return to fashion. Even Vogue and WWD still have the brand listed as Maison Martin Margiela. Unless controversy is the intent, in other words, this approach is a master class in how to rebrand under the radar. With the very quiet name change and the show taking part weeks before the Paris shows its evident that Maison Margiela and Galliano wants to distance the past. There was no competition with the Dior show, his former boss. No big event in Paris, it felt like Galliano had purposely avoided the past at all costs ready to start a fresh. However lets forget about fashion politics, the collection: it was yes from me! I was not sure how Maison Margiela's aesthetic and artisanal approach would work with Galliano but he pulled it off. It was still those things, the brands identity still remained, but with a more powerful, seductive undertone. The clothes seemed to be more wearable, they were more aesthetically pleasing, they were the new Masion Margiela... and its fabulous.

Seriously, when has Masion Martin Margiela ever been this good? I love it all. I love the cuts, I love the attention to detail, the mix of textures and colours, the embroidery. Yes Margiela had that before but Galliano adds a seductive 'je ne sais quoi'. You imagine a powerful, classy but edgy seductive women wearing his designs. He shows of a womans form in a powerful way. The clothes with a mix of artisanal detailing, draping and fabrics that I love stay true to Maison Margiela but now they are just, wow. I am hooked with the new Masion Margiela....

 

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